Osijek

Slavonia's largest city sits on the Drava and is best met on foot: from Tvrđa, the baroque 18th-century fortress town of squares, churches and cafés, along the river promenade to the Upper Town and the co-cathedral of Sts Peter and Paul, whose tower you can see from across the plain.

Osijek is also the way into Baranja: Kopački rit and the wine roads are across the Drava, half an hour's drive away.